Friday, September 23, 2011

MANGROVES!!!

Every once in a while projects just work... This probably doesn't sound like a radical idea but trust me in Peace Corps it really is.  This past week we had the second annual Mangrove Reforestation Day just outside of Toubacouta.  We got together with 28 PCV's, 30 Senegalese volunteers and 30,000 seedlings and went to town.  Before we get to the details here's a little back story.  Toubacouta is situated in the delta region of Senegal and is surrounded by thousands of acres of mangroves.  In fact at first glance there doesn't really seem to be a shortage of them...  There are however large areas that have been deforested for fuel, building materials, and because of oyster harvesting.  Mangroves are crucial for the ecology of the delta.  They clean the water, prevent erosion and provide a habitat for countless species of birds, fish, and apparently, but very rarely, manatees.  They're just awesome trust me.


Now that you're thoroughly convinced of the value of the program here are the details.  As I said this is the second annual Mangrove day.  The first was put on by my former site-mate Cail Hegeman in conjunction with the NGO Oceanium.  Now Cail had told me how easy this project was with Oceanium's help, but I didn't quite believe him.  I was flabbergasted.  Essentially Jamie Whitehead, Robert Rivera, and I organized the volunteers and told Oceanium the date we wanted to do the program and they took care of the rest.  They brought the seedlings, they brought the womens' groups, they brought the boats, they chose the site, I brought the boisson (that was a surprise reward at the end).  This is not normal.  In all my other interactions with NGO's they are not this reliable.   Go Oceanium!  Anyways we got to Toubacouta the 16th, checked into our hotels and had some very important discussions and work meetings and... no not really, we went to the fancy hotels and drank beer and swam in the pool as thunderstorms approached.  Don't worry mom I got out when the thunder and lightning  were less than 5 seconds apart... most did not...

The next day we all got up early and headed out to the Mangrove site.  Here's where Oceanium could have been a little more... upfront...  In all of our discussions I was led to believe that we were doing the reforestation just three kilometers outside of Toubacouta.  We did indeed travel three kilometers outside of Toubacouta... and then piled into a boat and traveled another hour into the delta.  This was not part of the plan.   Apart from some extra sun exposure though it was fine.  When we got the the site we all met up and discussed the general importance of Mangroves and then got to work.  Some people started sorting mangrove seedlings (we had to throw away a lot of broken ones) while others started planting.  The site for the reforestation was huge, over 10 hectares (almost 25 acres).  I imagined we were only going to finish a tiny part of the beach, but once we started going and the kids got their hands on seedlings we were flying.  As a side-note all of the kids and women were Sereres!  Sooooo nice to be able to speak my own language outside of my village.  Also that's probably why we got so much work done; Sereres are awesome.  Anyways we worked our way down the beach planting lines of seedlings every two meters until suddenly we were at the end... Well almost.  It was an insanely hot day and the tide started coming up really fast so we stopped a few hundred meters short of the end of the beach.  Also when the tide comes up over sand that's been baking in the sun for the past 4 hours the water just about boils.  It was kind of unbearable to walk through.
All told we probably reforested a total of 5-8 hectares (we didn't plant on the upper beach).  I need to talk to the Oceanium representative to get a better estimate.  As we walked back to the boats I quizzed the kids on the importance of mangroves and they enthusiastically gave me all the right answers.  It was at this point that I revealed my secret surprise of ice cold boisson (strawberry cool-aid basically).  They loved it!  We parted ways with smiles and then quickly got lost in the mangroves and had to turn around.  We found our way eventually and made it back without losing a
single volunteer.  Success!

It really is odd to just have things work.  I've been here a year and this is the first project that was unequivocally a success.   It just isn't usually so clear cut.  I guess this isn't in the overall sense of development either, but its pretty good.  There are a lot of NGOs that work with Mangroves, but few bring together so many people as equal work partners for a day like this.  That's the Peace Corps way.  We don't always get the biggest projects done but the ones we do are quality.  Thanks to everyone who helped!  It was a great day.  Enjoy some extra picture :-)  Cheers!

Serere children with mangrove seedlings.
My new site-mate Rob with some of our helpers.
Hard at work.  Look at the pretty lines of seedlings :-)
Large deforested area.
Me planting a seedling. 
David getting some help cooling off :-)
Rob showing off his dance moves.
Me with some new friends.
The long walk back after planting.  We were all very tired.
Boisson!!!
Boat full of very tired Toubabs :-)

Monday, September 5, 2011

Repetition, Repetition, Repetition

Don't bother trying to change anything, everything is always the same.  Don't bother trying to keep things the same, everything is always changing.  This is a paraphrasing from a book on acting called "Tips" and today I feel it is particularly poignant to my life.  One of my favorite things about theatre, and art in general, is its ability to hold conflicting truths as equally valid.  Nothing ever changes/ everything changes, yin/ yang, masculine/ feminine, light/ dark, sin/ virtue, matter/ anti-matter (for the Star Trek fans among us).  The essence of life is not in the thinning down of the Universe into one set of right answers, but rather in the conflict between opposing but equally valid forces.  Maybe conflict is even too loaded of a word.  The essence of life lies in interaction.  We are nothing in and of ourselves.  We only exist in relation to others and the world around us.  Mmmm big thoughts.  Theory of relativity perhaps?  Maybe even some dangerous moral relativism sneaking in.  What's the point?  I've been back in village for a week and a half and I'm struck by the conflicting truths that nothing ever changes while somehow at the same time everything is changing.  My life here can seem like groundhog's day so much of the time.  I get up, go through the same routine, have the same conflicts, admire the same things, eat the same food, go to bed and repeat.  At the same time though things are slowly changing.  The language is more solid every day, the failures, while frustrating, are less devastating, and the moments of peace are more appreciated.  Repeat the same routine enough times and things will evolve.  I'm struck once again by how the macro rules of the universe seem to filter down into everyday life...

Repetition:  Senegal, as with the rest of the world, seems destined to repeat its problems over and over again.  I've been back in village for a week and a half and I'm facing the same excuses for why the tree nursery wasn't out-planted, or why the field crops weren't weeded or fertilized and why in general none of my solutions seem feasible in the real world.  All the while I'm marveling at the repeated rituals; the archetypal football rivalries between neighboring villages, the births and baptisms, the deaths and funerals, and the constant march of the seasons with all that they bring.  The relentless repetition of life can make for a lot of frustration, but at the same time its what defines our humanity.  We, like all other animals, are irrevocably bound to cycles, even if in the west we like to define life in terms of seemingly linear progress. 

Repeat something enough times however and its bound to change and this applies to everything, the good the bad and the ugly.  I had a wonderful theatre teacher who loved repetition.  She would tell us, "Don't think, don't create, just repeat".  "Repeat what?" we would ask.  "You've already begun" she would reply.  We would start from nothing.  What happens if you repeat nothing?  Well life happens in all its marvelous chaotic beauty.  From nothing things would simply start to happen: someone would cough, a shoe would squeak, a door would slam.  With each new unexpected, unplanned event we had the choice whether to ignore it and blindly repeat the past, or accept it as the new truth of the moment and adopt it into our repetition.  I'm not saying we should always ditch the old for the new, but I can say one of these options creates a much more interesting spontaneous theatrical composition.  Theatre through evolution.  It really makes perfect sense.  What is evolution but a series of imperfect repetitions which respond to the new truth of the moment.  Think what life would be if those ancient amoebas just played it cool and denied the new tail they developed in favor of trying to be like mom and dad.  Think of the actor who would play the scene exactly the same even if the chandelier fell right in front of them.  It just wouldn't work.  

Amoebas? Actors? Evolution?  Have you lost the thread of this post?  Good I'm not alone.  We are doomed to repeat our failures, we are blessed to repeat out traditions.  No matter how hard we try some things will never change, no matter how hard we try some things will never stay the same.  Come on now keep up.  Roll with the punches.  Break!

Now this is a hard enough pill to swallow in everyday life but it's especially hard as a development worker whose underlying mandate is to fix the bad parts without messing up the good.  I think its important though to take a lesson from my two theatre examples and realize that first we are a whole lot less powerful then we think and second that some of the most elaborate solutions come out of the natural varience of repition.  Evolution's photocopier has solved a lot more difficult problems than helping Senegal.  Once again though this kind of Buddhist patience is difficult when you only get two years and thus two repetitions of most things to try to make an impact.  Trial and error, which is how we end up working anyways, is a slower process than this.  I'm at the one year mark of my service and thus things have started repeating a lot.  Let me take this opportunity then to repeat some ideas from a previous post and see if I can't tie this whole mess together and give you all the wondrous intellectual catharsis I know you crave from my lovely blog... ok probably not but I'll try not to leave you in muddled frustration... myself included.

Even for all of my doubts about my efficacy here, there is one area where I know I can make a difference, and it is something I will work at for the rest of my life.  I have come to know Islam a lot better than most Americans, and with the 10th anniversary of 9/11 fast approaching I feel it is my patriotic duty to once again reach out and defend this peaceful faith.  I wrote a post about Islam in more detail during PST so I won't be delving too deeply today, but I do want to say one important thing.  Every year around this time Islam comes into question once again.  Be it through 24hr network news reports or through word of mouth, the merits of this faith are unfairly scrutinized in a way that Christianity and Judaism simply aren't.  Beyond just the faith, Muslims are persecuted.  In America they are made to feel unpatriotic, or worse, as if they aren't real citizens.  I don't know a whole lot about Islam in America but I hear the slander and it needs to stop.  This is the 10th repetition of 9/11 and that gives it more symbolic power than usual.  Nostalgia would say for many to not let go of the passion and importance surrounding this date while the reality of the situation is that for better or for worse things have cooled down.  We don't hate the Japanese on Pearl Harbor day, we certainly don't have to hate Muslims on 9/11.  Now I realize I'm preaching to the choir here... probably... but nonetheless its time to let this day evolve and stomp out the ignorance which in inevitably invokes in much of the population.  If you hear someone making an anti-Islamic comment, say something.  If you see news coverage which is unfair, call in an say so.  I just participated in my second Korite (the end of Ramadan) and saw the beauty once again of a faith based on peace and compassion, and I see no reason why anyone should fear it or persecute its followers.  Reach out to your local Mosque and make this 9/11 about coming together and healing rather than perpetuating hate.  Some of the rifts between Muslims and Christians will probably never go away, but as we repeat these rituals year after year there's no reason that we need to deny that the world is evolving and we can coexist with peace and understanding. 

Sometimes I feel like I will never understand the world.  Sometimes I feel like I understand it better every day.  I guess I had better keep waking up to see what changes next.